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America's oldest windjammer sails along the coast of Maine
BY JENNIFER MERIN
Creators Syndicate
Posted Saturday, November 19, 2005
CAMDEN - Passengers aboard the tall ship Lewis R. French develop a proprietary attitude toward the historic schooner.
First-time sailors quickly become engaged in life on board. By day two of a six-day sail, they're old hands at hauling and heaving anchor and lines, trimming sails, coming about and doing galley chores such as stoking the ship's wood-burning stove, kneading dough, peeling potatoes, grating carrots and scrubbing pots.
By week's end, they've become dedicated "French-ophiles," joining the ranks of repeat passengers who've been returning year after year to the schooner for their annual sail - 17 years was the record among passengers aboard the French for the sail during the first week in June, and that's longer than the French's current master, Capt. Garth Wells, has been on deck.
Capt. Garth took ownership two years ago, after having served as the French's first mate for several years. At age 31, he's the youngest of the masters of mid-coast Maine's fleet of 14 windjammers - of which, coincidentally, the French, built in 1871, is the oldest and arguably most traditional. In fact, the French is the oldest windjammer in America.
"It's amazing to me that she's more than 100 years older than I am. It's a great honor to own her. I was selected by the previous owner, who was selected by the owner before him. Eventually, I'll choose the next to carry on her tradition," muses Capt. Garth, whose rugged good looks, windblown brown locks, red beard and winsome grin make him ideal casting as schooner captain. More importantly, his love and respect for the ship are evident in his every word and action.
"When we sail into a sheltering cove, discovering the Grace Bailey (another schooner, built in 1882) at anchor, I feel we've been transported back in time. It could easily be 1890. The schooners look just as they did, outlined against the rocky coastline and uncut forests. It's a rare, marvelous feeling - establishing the relaxed, peaceful atmosphere on board. Time and again, passengers tell me of the great pleasure it brings them."
The Lewis R. French, designated a National Historic Landmark, measures 64¨ feet on deck. The tallest of her two masts stretches 81 feet skyward. Passengers especially enjoy gasp-worthy moments when she sails beneath bridges connecting mainland and islands - often clearing by inches only.
In addition to her crew of four, including Capt. Garth, she carries 22 passengers, usually ranging in age from teens to seniors, accommodated in 13 cabins (four singles, nine doubles).
Cabins and common areas have electric lights, but there are no in-cabin outlets, no phones, faxes, television, Internet or air conditioning.
Ice chests keep provisions cool and fresh. Meals are cooked on a wood-burning stove.
There are two immaculately maintained heads, one doubling as a hot-water shower.
The anchor is lifted with a hand-cranked windlass.
The French runs with the wind, following impromptu itineraries off the mainland, among dozens of islands around Penobscot Bay. Land is always in sight, except when dense, fog obscures the coastline.
Sails are set mornings after breakfast, lowered evenings after the anchor is dropped, but to enter and exit ever-bustling Camden Harbor, the French's charming home port, motor is required. So, a small motorized yawl is used as a tug.
Capt. Garth also puts the yawl into play when the French hits and sits in "iron wind" (no wind), or for ferrying passengers to town in Castine (home of Maine Maritime Academy), Stonington (a lobstering village) or other coastal communities for day visits.
For wilderness landings, passengers are rowed ashore. The Bartlett Island stop includes the optional 2¨-mile "Peggy's Loop" hike through sunny fields, shaded glens, along rocky cliffs with magnificent views and past an ancient cemetery. The pebbly beach is ideal for "polar bear" swimmers and for the fabulous lobster boil (three lobsters per passenger, corn on the cob, grilled burgers, hot dogs and s'mores).
After sharing work and wonders aboard the French, passengers who were strangers leave as family. Before parting, many book next year's sail.
The French offers three to six-day sails, priced $495 to $855 per person. Call (800) 469-4635, or visit www.schoonerfrench.com.
For other windjammer and travel information, call (800) 807-9463 or visit www.sailmainecoast.com.
© 2005, Creators Syndicate Inc.
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